Tomorrow August
14, marks a year after the complete ceding of the once disputed
Bakassi Peninsula by Nigeria to Cameroon, after a 2002 ICJ court ruling, and the Green Tree
Accord. I am currently in the area shooting a documentary film.
I blog tonight from somewhere on the Atlantic Ocean. Bobbing
and swaying like a baby on a rocking chair (Latitude 4.22/ Longitude 8.81).
Yes, I am on the military support vessel, the Rio Del Rey, anchored in the middle of the oilfield that also bears
the same name.
But the comfort of the vessel, has not wiped off the terrifying
sensations of this week’s boat trips from Idenau to Jabane, Jabane to Akwa, and
Jabane to the Rio Del Rey oilfield (tomorrow I head out to Idabato).
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Waterways are the solution, highways almost impossible in marshes
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Before looking at the complex issue of administering
Bakassi, let’s look at the highlights of my trip so far.
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Nigerian-built bunker at Akwa |
Apart from meeting the former hostage and Mayor of
Kombo Abedimo, I saw this bunker and a metal helmet worthy of the Second World
War, next to the site where the official hand-over of Bakassi was staged in
2008. The bunker was constructed by the Nigerian troops stationed there during
the conflict, as shelter for their senior officers.
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war relic at hand-over site, Akwa |
I also stood before this post-colonial building,
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Full Gospel Church exhibit at ICJ |
constructed in the president Ahidjo era today a Full Gospel Church, used by
advocate Maurice Kamto as evidence during the ICJ hearings at The Hague of
Cameroonian presence in the area.
I walked the beach of Jabane with ‘Quatorze’, the
oldest dog at the military base. The first soldiers met the dog at the base on
August 14, 2008 when they arrived. It has had many siblings with just 7
surviving.
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Quartoze
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Quatorze accompanies almost each of the special ops soldiers now in
the area on patrol, he even patrolled when soldiers felt the small village was
too risky and stayed in camp. Quatorze is in his own right part of the Bakassi story.
Certainly there is always a human side to the story,
as I watched young boys of Ibiobio and Ijaw descent, either taking their fish
to the drier or weaving their nets, I wondered if they have birth certificates,
a teacher, and feel Nigerian or Cameroonian?
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Bakassi boy takes fish to drier |
My malicious side has also had a good laugh at both my
colleagues, and military staff hanging their phones to cables, near rooftops,
or pacing in patches of land in search of the rare mobile network, to call
their loved ones!
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press and army search for mobile network |
Bakassi What next?
“We do not want to regret our decision to stay in
Bakassi and accept Cameroonian rule" a Jabane reverend confided in me this
afternoon, expressing the deep desire of the mainly Nigerian inhabitants not to
be ‘forgotten’. He however recognizes that the random visits of senior Cameroonian
administrators, is proof that this is not yet the case.
While the local community chiefs recognize their
obligation to eventually contribute by way of taxes, to the government they now
look up to for basic amenities, and someday participation in governance, they
are aware that they must first be identified (National Identity cards or
residence permits).
The men like the women are willing to get their new-born
babies registered in the civil status registry (for birth certificates). This
will naturally be the next testing phase as Cameroon wields full control over
the Bakassi Peninsula. Telling who gets the Cameroonian nationality, who doesn’t.
And most of the people I spoke to, do own Nigerian nationality and passports (dual
nationality is not accepted by Cameroonian Law).
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Bakassi boy weaves fishing net |
Folks here still prefer to trade
mainly in Naira, and are only just accepting the Franc, five years after the
hand-over. Government is frantically trying to install its offices in the area,
and bring vital infrastructure, (with a measure of success in some parts and
less in others).
So far the biggest let-down has been failure to complete the Mundemba-Isangele to Akwa stretch, the main road link to the peninsula. On the seafront, it is practically impossible to build any roads in the marshlands, but giving councils the resources to buy boats will improve civilian transport on the many waterways. As for the Cultural Revolution, it requires more time and greater tact, books, functional schools, radio and television signals, not forgetting mobile network.